techquilter
11-28-2007, 12:50 PM
A few people have asked about this lately, and I happened to be doing one, so here is my first try at a tutorial.
I am doing the Hilda hooded dress from the latest Ottobre. It will be in a SNS with all my CHristmas sewing soon! Sorry about the photos, I used the same settings for all, but some turned out brighter than others....not too sure why!
Cut the outer hood per instructions.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2013/2071534260_3c55c350f c.jpg
Cut the inner hood using the same pattern, but take 1/4" off the back seam (to make it fit nicely into the outer hood), and add 1/4" to 1/2" to the neck edge.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2252/2071534256_16ab2f75c 3.jpg
Sew the back seams of each hood. I used my serger. TIP: If you set your differential to 1.5 (1.0 is neutral on my machine) it will help you get aroudn those "outside" corners.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2294/2071534274_1e15f94e3 d.jpg
Turn the seam allowances to opposite sides, "nest" the seams together. (You can do this by feel, they kind of butt up against one another). Pin the back seams together, leaving about an inch or so at the neck edge unpinned.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2372/2071552788_b2f9be91a 7.jpg
Pin and sew the outer hood ONLY to the neckline of the garment.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2365/2071552792_b59e25e0b 5_m.jpg
I then use wonder tape ( a two sided adhesive that has paper on it and washes out) to stick the seam allowance down towards teh garment.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2043/2071552796_c6e8f4d63 1_m.jpg
Turn and pin the neckline seam allowance of the inner hood so that it is a finished edge that covers the seam allowance of the outer hood. (This is why you added a bit to the inner hood neck edge)
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2053/2071552802_12bed3ca1 4.jpg
Stitch the inner neck edge down from the OUTSIDE. This is the side that you will see when the hood is up, so try to do it neatly. It will take a bit of manipulation, but you can do it. When you are finished, check to be sure that the inner hood neck edge is sewn down all the way around. Add another line of stitching if needed.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2097/2071552804_fac58fe3d d.jpg
Sew "in the ditch" (right on the seam line) of the back hood seam. This secures the two hoods together. I usually match the top thread to the outer hood, and the bobbin to the inner hood so if I go off the seam a bit it won't be as noticable.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2107/2070774051_9d69efc57 9.jpg
Baste and bind the face (front) hood edge with binding, FOE, ribbing, whatever you want. (Mine looks different because I did an inserted ribbing band that matches the wrists and pocket)
You have now completed a lined hood!
I am doing the Hilda hooded dress from the latest Ottobre. It will be in a SNS with all my CHristmas sewing soon! Sorry about the photos, I used the same settings for all, but some turned out brighter than others....not too sure why!
Cut the outer hood per instructions.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2013/2071534260_3c55c350f c.jpg
Cut the inner hood using the same pattern, but take 1/4" off the back seam (to make it fit nicely into the outer hood), and add 1/4" to 1/2" to the neck edge.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2252/2071534256_16ab2f75c 3.jpg
Sew the back seams of each hood. I used my serger. TIP: If you set your differential to 1.5 (1.0 is neutral on my machine) it will help you get aroudn those "outside" corners.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2294/2071534274_1e15f94e3 d.jpg
Turn the seam allowances to opposite sides, "nest" the seams together. (You can do this by feel, they kind of butt up against one another). Pin the back seams together, leaving about an inch or so at the neck edge unpinned.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2372/2071552788_b2f9be91a 7.jpg
Pin and sew the outer hood ONLY to the neckline of the garment.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2365/2071552792_b59e25e0b 5_m.jpg
I then use wonder tape ( a two sided adhesive that has paper on it and washes out) to stick the seam allowance down towards teh garment.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2043/2071552796_c6e8f4d63 1_m.jpg
Turn and pin the neckline seam allowance of the inner hood so that it is a finished edge that covers the seam allowance of the outer hood. (This is why you added a bit to the inner hood neck edge)
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2053/2071552802_12bed3ca1 4.jpg
Stitch the inner neck edge down from the OUTSIDE. This is the side that you will see when the hood is up, so try to do it neatly. It will take a bit of manipulation, but you can do it. When you are finished, check to be sure that the inner hood neck edge is sewn down all the way around. Add another line of stitching if needed.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2097/2071552804_fac58fe3d d.jpg
Sew "in the ditch" (right on the seam line) of the back hood seam. This secures the two hoods together. I usually match the top thread to the outer hood, and the bobbin to the inner hood so if I go off the seam a bit it won't be as noticable.
http://farm3.static.flickr. com/2107/2070774051_9d69efc57 9.jpg
Baste and bind the face (front) hood edge with binding, FOE, ribbing, whatever you want. (Mine looks different because I did an inserted ribbing band that matches the wrists and pocket)
You have now completed a lined hood!