How to draft a puffed sleeve

[sewingmel]

This tutorial shows you how to draft a puffed sleeve from a regular sleeve pattern. This is an easy way to make a regular t-shirt more girly. Pattern shown is the girl's t-shirt pattern from Ottobre Magazine issue 4/2004 #36. The pink shirt is a finished example of this pattern with a puffed sleeve.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/owl016.jpg

Step 1: Trace your sleeve pattern onto paper. I have a huge roll of craft paper that I like to use for this, and I prefer that over my usual pattern ease.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12002.jpg

Step 2: Fold pattern in half, matching ends. Cut sleeve pattern down the middle. I have a rotary blade that I use just for patterns.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12003.jpg

Step 3: Finish cutting pattern into 8 equal pieces. You can either do the math to determine the width of each piece, or you can continue folding each piece in half until you have 8 equal pieces.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12007.jpg

Step 4: This is very important. Number each piece from 1-8. I don't bother with cutting out each piece because that doesn't matter.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12009.jpg

Step 5: On a large piece of paper, draw a straight line down the middle.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12012.jpg

Step 6: Place piece 4 against the straight line.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12014.jpg

Step 7: Line up your ruler 1/2" away from the top and 3/4" away from the bottom of pattern piece #4. Draw a straight line.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12017.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12014.jpg

Step 8: Line up your pattern piece against the straight line, and glue or tape it to the paper.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12018.jpg

Step 9: Continue to draw straight lines and match pattern pieces until all 8 are taped or glued.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12019.jpg

Step 10: Draw new sleeve pattern. Even out the edges as needed.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12022.jpg

Step 11: Fold pattern in half matching ends. The fold line will be your fold line and new grainline.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12031.jpg

Step 12: Cut out pattern on the fold. If you want, you can retrace your pattern onto new paper. Make sure to label it. (not shown) I do not add seam allowances to the top or sides of this pattern. I do add a little extra length because I like a longer ruffle. I only use a 1/4" seam allowance on this pattern. It is probably a good idea to add a seam allowance to the top of your pattern.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/bg12035.jpg

To use this pattern (not shown):
I always make my puffed sleeve hems with rolled edges and shirred sleeves like this (http://www.sewingmamas.com/b/showthread.php?t=139 190). You may also make an elastic casing, but you will need to gather up the excess fabric some way.

For the top of the sleeve, I mark gathering lines at the top of the pattern (usually around pieces 3 and 6). To make sure that the sleeves are even, I mark them when the fabric is on the fold. Make gathering lines on the sleeve top between your marked spots, and gently pull the threads to match the sleeve with the bodice. See the easy playdress tutorial (http://www.sewingmamas.com/b/showthread.php?t=100 862) for help with gathering lines.

[Isabel]

THank you !!!!!

[momtoesther]

I'm a bit unsure on something:
In step 7 you draw a line that is not parallel to the original grain line, correct? Are the remaining lines parallel to the first line that you made, or do you change the angle on each line that you draw?

Hope this question makes sense :)

[SynEpona]

Thanks Mel! I have a S.W.A.P. planned for Cate's summer clothes, and this will be the perfect way to girly-up some plain navy jersey.

[sewingmel]

I'm a bit unsure on something:
In step 7 you draw a line that is not parallel to the original grain line, correct? Are the remaining lines parallel to the first line that you made, or do you change the angle on each line that you draw?

Hope this question makes sense :)

That line is there just for a starting point. None of the lines will be parallel to the starting line or the original grain line. You are redrawing lines that are different at the top and bottom. Basically, you are changing angles on every line.

When you fold the pattern in half matching the ends, you will have a center point that is exactly between piece 4 and 5. The top will be 1/4" and the bottom will be 3/8" from both sides. This will be your new grain line, and you can even cut your sleeves on the fold if you want. All lines parallel to the center line are grain lines, but you have to ignore the original grain line. It is no longer parallel to center. If you cut according to the old grain line, your sleeve will hang funny.

I hope that helps. Let me know if you are still confused.

[carsonsmommy23]

Thank you!!

[ESmyth]

thanks for sharing :)

[MGMSRK]

Thank you for posting this.