Day 4- Ottobre 5/2009 Panties Sew Along

[sewingmel]

Day 1 (http://www.sewingmamas.com/b/showthread.php?t=153 206)
Day 2 (http://www.sewingmamas.com/b/showthread.php?t=153 254)
Day 3 (http://www.sewingmamas.com/b/showthread.php?p=184 9972)


Day 4
Step 19: Right sides together, pin the sides of the panties.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial046.jpg

Step 20: Sew side seams. Iron seam towards the back of your panties.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial049.jpg

Step 21: To keep the layers of the crotch gusset together, use washable glue to hold them together. You can buy the more expensive washable fabric glue, but I find that the school glue works just as well.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial054.jpg

Step 22: Finish leg openings. You will need elastic or fold over elastic. Today, I am showing you how to do the fold over elastic. If you want to use 1/4" elastic, you will use the same technique for the leg openings as the waist, and I will show you that technique tomorrow.

Since I did not grow up using metric, I always have to look up the amounts of elastic or yardage needed for patterns. I did the work for you. Hopefully, my math is correct.

Step 22A: Add 1" to your elastic length for seam allowance, and cut elastic according to the following chart.

Size- Elastic/Fold Over Elastic Needed
34----- 39.4 inches
36----- 40.7
38----- 42
40----- 43.3
42----- 44.6
44----- 45.9
46----- 47.2
48----- 48.5
50----- 49.8
52----- 51.5

Cut your elastic length in half. Check it against your leg. If it is WAY too loose, you can cut away 1-2.5 inches. When I was a larger size than now, I thought the elastic was too generous. This just depends on your body shape. If the elastic is too tight, cut a slightly longer piece.

Step 22B: Sew elastic into a circle using a 1/4" seam allowance. Make sure that your elastic is not twisted.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial059.jpg

Step 22C: Finger press seam allowance open. This is one of the only things that I don't use my iron to do because elastic can melt at too high of a setting.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial061.jpg

Step 22D: Mark quarter points on your fold over elastic and your panties. Make sure that you are dividing each into 4 equal parts.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial062.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial056.jpg

Step 22 E: Match quarter points and pin elastic in place.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial063.jpg

Step 22 F: I use a zig-zag stitch for foe. You can see this stitch on even higher end undies (or bathing suits), and it is easier to control.
Carefully stretch the elastic only to meet the fabric. You should NOT be stretching your fabric. Make sure the your fabric is tucked inside the elastic, and sew elastic to the panties.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial065.jpg

Take your time and be careful. If you have not sewn foe on undies (or even if you have), it can be a bit tricky. Make sure that you catch all of the fabric inside your foe.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s181/shoepants/sew%20along%20pics/tutorial069.jpg

[momtoesther]

I don't know whether I should laugh or cry...

https://lh4.googleuserconten t.com/-4ihbcS_Hl08/Ty83zSZnfeI/AAAAAAAAAkg/PJ5igQx-1os/s640/CIMG0223.jpg

The ones on top are my store bought pair. I knew they would be too big! I think these are going into the trash :( Now I'm not sure if I should just try trace another WAY smaller size or go to walmart...

Oh, and I did try them on...sorry if this is TMI, but the gusset was way too far back. Is this just because they were way too big?

[sewingmel]

You still don't have elastic in the legs, and that does make a difference. I would keep going with this pair since you are pretty close to the end. Mine looked pretty huge compared to my favorite pair until I had the elastic in them. You can also cut away the excess rise in day 5.

[momtoesther]

I have the elastic on one side. I guess I will finish them but I'm not sure that a second leg elastic will help.

[sewingmel]

I am confused because your leg elastic didn't pull them in much at all. Did you make them according to your measurements? I would try making them smaller then.

[momtoesther]

Yes I did. I wear a rtw size of 12 and my measurements came up as inbetween 44 and 46, but closer to 46. I think I might just be used to wearing tight undies too :) I'll finish them and post an update.

I used the measurement of FOE that was listed in the directions. I did have to pull it some but not much.

[sewingmel]

When I made the size 44 pair (in 2009), I did have to take off almost 2" on the foe. I also cut my down about 1.5" on the top. I didn't need to cut off any foe for the size 40 pair I just made. I am not sure if my body changed or if the pattern was different for those sizes.